Battery Receiver Setup has two batteries to keep track. Here's how:

So on a hand remote, the first column is battery percentage of the hand unit. Now we have to manage the batteries in the receiver. There’s two ways to find out receiver battery percentage.

#1 By turning on the receiver, it will blink once for every ten percent of receiver battery after it succeeds in being orientated properly.

#2 Once your hand remote receives numbers, put the dial to min. then hold red. you will see a bar in the top row go from left to the right. once it says battery, you can let go the button and it will ask the receiver wirelessly its battery percentage and display it.

EVOX IDLE Board Explanation

This brief talks about the evox idle board and describes the SA200 wiring in my own understanding and words.

in my opinion, at this time, the SA200 in its minimalist form has four wires:

1. DC exciter positive (often black)

2. DC exciter negative (often red)

3. second wire tied into DC exciter positive heading into the shunts

4. wire from the shunt wire heading to the remote switch

Lets start with the DC exciter positive and negative. Coming from the barrel, you will have two wires. colors dont indicate anything but they are typically red and black. with a dc multimeter and the machine running, the wire measuring positive is DC exciter positive and the wire measuring negative is DC exciter negative.

Now that you have identified those two wires, hopefully you have only two remaining wires. I call them DC exciter positive to shunt and shunt heading to middle of remote switch.

In SA200 setups with an idle board. the DC exciter positive connects to the LINE 1 of the idle board.. On that same spade, a new wire is connected grabbing that power. That wire is the DC exciter positive to shunt.

In SA200 setups with an idle board. LINE2 on the idle board has a short wire feeding power to one of the prongs of the receptacle for you grinder.

While were on it, the same receptacle other prong would be DC exciter negative. Often you’ll have the DC exciter negative connect here and have a second wire shoot up to one side of the machine rheostat.

On the evox idle board, IDLE on the idle board accepts the other wire of the solenoid for your throttle.. On a side note, the other side of the solenoid grabs voltage from the oil pressure switch or something similar.

Wiring Setup:

1. VBAT battery voltage (yellow wire from auto idle toggle switch)

2. REED weld reed switch one or both sides (optional spade if reed returns to board)

3. SHUNT (top prong remote switch))

4. LINE 2 (board to fuse for receptacle)

5. LINE 1 (positive exciter)

6. IDLE (white) (ground of solenoid)

7. SHUNT (top prong remote switch)

8. DC - NEG (dc negative exciter)

The Wire coming out the generator is the blue shunt wire. The blue shunt wire if you have a remote switch, goes to the center prong. Then a new wire goes from the bottom remote switch prong to one side of the machine rheostat. A new wire goes from the top remote switch prong to the SHUNT spade on the evox idle board.

Your board grabs SA200 battery ground through board posts. As well, my screws are one size bigger than oem. So a slight enlargement of the two holes may be necessary

These points are all just pieces of information. Well adjust this tutorial accordingly

Command Start Install & Function Tutorial

Last Updated on May 31, 2019

READ #1 when you command start your welder, it will not let you shut it down until fifty seconds have passed. This is to allow the code to follow through and ensure the oem processor has relinquished duty to my code .. :)

READ#2 READ THIS TWICE BECAUSE ITS COUNTER INTUITIVE. TO PLUG IN OR DISCONNECT THE MODULE FROM THE HARNESS, THE SMALL FIVE PRONG HARNESS WHICH HAS THE GROUND HAS TO BE DISCONNECTED LAST IF YOU ARE REMOVING THE MODULE. ITS BECAUSE THE UNIT HAS FLYBACK DIODES FOR THE RELAYS AND CAN BE DAMAGED. THIS IS OEM INSTRUCTIONS. SO IF A WELDER REPAIR TECH DISCONNECTS THE GROUND OF THE BATTERY, THE REMOTE START ALTHOUGH NOT LIKELY, MAY BE DAMAGED. TO INSTALL IT, THE EASY WAY IS TO FLICK THE SWITCH OFF TO THE REMOTE START.

The command start will come to as ready as possible for install. It will include a six wire harness plug and a smaller harness plug with one ground wire comprising of seven connections and a sole 24 inch red wire spaded on either side.

The larger harness is:

1. RED - 12vdc ( goes to voltmeter polarity switch bottom prong ) (two wire to one wire with fuses)

2. PURPLE - Crank

3. GREEN - 2nd ignition (identical to yellow)

4. ORANGE - GLOW (attached white wire relay harness)

5. YELLOW - 1st ignition (identical to green)

The Smaller harness is:

1. Black - Ground from battery

Relay Harness: GLOW PLUG

1. White - Wired into Orange of large harness

2. Black - Wired into Black (gnd) of smaller harness

3. Blue - (ring connector - Lincoln) one side of glow plug button

4. Yellow - (ring connector - Lincoln) other side of glow plug button

2ft Red Wire: Responsible for transferring power from the top prong of the ignition switch to the center prong which is live when the switch is off.

Lincoln Vantage

Connection #1: Attach black wire ring connector under the nut of the ground stud on the right side behind the faceplate. This is a ground and can be confirmed by confirming other wires attached to contain a "5*" wire (no picture at this time)

Connection #2 Attach the sole 2ft red wire included spade to the top prong of the ignition switch empty spade. (see below where the double wire is, put it there as the double wire goes now to the voltmeter bottom prong) —> beware, its live VDC with the ignition switch in the off position. unless the ground of the battery is removed and live when the ignition switch is in the off position. Attach the sole red wire other end to the bottom spade of the wire voltmeter switch. Voltmeter switch is identical to the ignition switch in the sense that it has two sides. So use the free side. Note: This will turn on the command start when the voltmeter switch which you never use is in the up position.

Function of that switch is when the switch is in the up position, center prong is connected to the bottom prong. Switch in the down position center prong is connected to the top prong <- thereby cutting power to the command start start. (a side note is when the original ignition switch is on for normal machine use, this cuts power to the command start which is a nice touch)

Connection #3: Attach green wire spade connector in line with the left side ignition spade shown above. Remove, and insert add on and reinsert (see pic) You pull the existing two connected wires, insert yours then add the originals to yours (if the ignition switch is off, you can perform this without the circuit live)

Connection #4: Yellow wire spade is identical to above, just the other side of the ignition switch (presently no picture)

Connection #5: Attach the purple wire ring connector to the stud of the crank button. (the side which does not have 12vdc when the button is not depressed) if you put it on the wrong side, it just wont crank the machine.

Connection #6. Attach the smaller yellow wire from the automotive relay harness to the right side of the glow plug button. And attach the smaller blue wire from the relay harness to the left side of the glow plug button. Or vice versa, it doesn’t matter in this connection.

Connection #7 Attach the double red wire to the center prong of the wire voltmeter switch.

Connection #8 Attach module to smaller harness first to the module. Then attach larger harness to module second.

A correct hook up will have the module click four times after about three seconds of being turned on. Then for three seconds, the ignition will turn on and off as a test, then the glow plug as a test

It is ready for hand remote trigger.

Arcade Remote: dial maxed, hold both buttons for at least eight seconds or till it says "machine on/off" This is a on/off request. if the machine is remote started, it will turn off. If the machine is off, it will attempt to start it.

GLOW PLUG DELAY

Glow plug delay is now temperature based. no glow plug above 10 celsius. incrementally longer as the module is colder.

Miller Electric

RECENTLY UPDATED Correction Date 2019-08-03

The above picture is the current miller remote start harness. from the left you have Ground (42), interrupt (62), other interrupt (62), glowplug (58) <- orange, ignition (55) <- green, battery (48) <- red, starter (51) <- purple

Unplug the five pronged female plug on the back of the ignition switch. If in doubt, this plug has the following wires attached to it: 48 (BATTERY), 51 (START), 55 (RUN/IDLE) and 62 (RUN) but they will likely be dusty so u can get by using the diagram to the left following the same orientation very carefully

Note: double check all your connections. ask if you have concerns.

Connection #1: With a 13mm or 1/2” wrench, picture supplied on this page with the wrench, remove the nut securing the ground wires and add your ringed black wire. It is included with a #10 stud ring. Should you have a 1/4” stud, you must cut the ring off and replace it with a 1/4” size ring connector.

Connection #2 & #3: attach the green wire female spade to the middle row left prong (55  run/idle). then attach the green wire male spade to the corresponding slot in the oem plug that has 55 run/idle wire coming out of it.

Connection #4 & #5: attach the purple wire female spade to the top row single prong (51 STARTER). then attach the purple male spade to the corresponding slot in the oem plug that has 51 Starter wire coming out of it.

Connection #5 & #6: attach the female spade wire coming off the relay to the bottom row most right prong, number 62,. then attach the male spade to the corresponding slot in the oem plug that has the 62 wire coming out of it. these two wires are not directional. one is male, one is female.

Connection #7 & #8: attach the red wire female spade to the middle row right prong (48 battery). then attach the red wire male spade to the corresponding slot in the oem plug that has 48 battery wire coming out of it.

Connection #9: the orange wire coming off the big harness is the glow plug wire. Locate the back of the glow plug button module and disconnect wire (58). attach it to the supplied Double Male Spade and reattach the wire bundle to the glow plug button module. in my case, it was the top wire of the glow plug switch. but technically, you atach this wire to the side that only receives voltage when the switch is depressed.

Connection #10 Attach the module connector which has the ground wire to the module. Then attach the connector with the remainder of the wires to the module.

Connection #11 A correct hook up will have the module click four times (two light blinks) after about three seconds of being turned on. Then four seconds later, the ignition will turn on for three seconds as a function test.

Connection #12 At this point, with the hood still off the machine, you will test your original switch function by turning on your machine. If you machine does not turn on, you have mixed up the wires. If it started normally, you may shut off and go to the next step

Connection #13 With your machine off, you may test your hand remote starter function. It is ready for hand remote trigger. Arcade: dial maxed, hold both red and green buttons down for at least eight seconds or till it says "machine on/off" more on this. when your holding red and green, you should see a letter on the screen and the leds increment.

GLOW PLUG DELAY

Glow plug delay is now temperature based. no glow plug above 10 celsius. incrementally longer as the module is colder.

FINAL NOTE: You must wait fifty seconds after a successful remote start to repeat the sequence to turn it off

The Arcade Hand Remote (EVOX)

To access the Up5 Down5 mode of a freshly started arcade remote do the following:

• after you see numbers, ensure its not minimum or maximum on the dial

• hold down top button, then hold down buttonn not letting go of both until you see "Up Down Ok!"

• tap one button to refesh the number into incrementals

• It should start off where the dial was last left.

the bottom button while the dial is not on minimum if depressed for three seconds will trigger a hot start and only go back once you release the bottom button.

TIP if the screen is off during this mode, moving the dial will ‘refresh’ the amps for your knowledge without changing the heat

To regain your dial, you can do two things:

• Sweep back and forth from min to max at a regular speed until it engages

• restart your hand remote

Origin Story

Growing up, everything I got my hands on, I took apart. Always fascinated how things worked. Often never got put back together correctly, but that’s another matter. Secondary education in computer sciences gave me a foundation in controlling electronics. A career in the army gave me the needed discipline and the spirit of never giving up, then a second career as a rig welder, we come to a few years ago.

In 2016, I flew to work with a shoe box full of electronics to work. Back then, i was still subconscious of what airport security would say to my mix of wires, radio, and batteries. Having served one tour in Afghanistan as a support welder, i was well aware of how it looked and there are certainly lots of stereotypes these days concerning radios and their uses. but, no one said anything. airport secuirty is a joke. This was a by hand, (single arm) job. Sure enough, work had no remotes for me to use, qu’elle surprise, and I had tie ins including my qualifiers. So, in a few nights in camp with fewer than one hundred lines of code, and a battery that lasted four hours, my first wireless remote was born. it was one way, only a distance of fifty feet, but it worked great, and raised my welding game instantly. A week later, we were evacuated for forest fires.

During the three weeks off during the fires, I built a prototype to go back to work that would work on both lincoln and miller. It was two way meaning it would flash a small light confirming the signal came back. After that, i purchased my first 3d printer, Ultimaker 2+ Extended, and got going on research. The following January, i literally sat on the couch for a straight month coding with Star Trek The next generation on the TV, loved it. Made a model to what i thought was worthy for other welders. I took the plunge and began selling them.

First generation remotes were offered from February 2017 to October 2017. A new model and generation was offered in November of that year. The second generation grew to peak around mid 2018. in February of 2019, the EVOX was born. And its fucking awesome.

The key to success is every unit sold is supported in full. Not only do I listen to feedback which improves every subsequent unit, I gladly warranty and fix anything that gets broken. One of my most rewarding tasks is receiving a unit from the field, updating it, and seeing how the customer likes the improvements.

I work tirelessly. Always a laptop near me knowing nothing comes easy. This will be the best welding remote on the planet. the one others will copy and emulate

Initial Setup

CHECK DAILY! I AM UPDATING IT TO MAKE MY LIFE EASIER

Just got your remote? This is what you want to read. I spent years making the remote complicated as shit. now, I have to make easy to use and setup despite a learning curve that will not allow you to understand it on your first day. Just how it is. But this page and the subsequent ones will get you working.

Let’s call them “Confidence Checks” called CC for short. Just made that up. but, it’ll work.

Confidence Check #1: Let’s get you to acknowledge the hand remote battery power. When you turn on your hand remote (full depress of that black looking button on the face left of the dial), your hand remote will flash up that nifty bat logo, then immediately display the battery bar to the left. it will fade away after five seconds so pay attention. There you go, that’s the battery power. Might as well leave it plugged in the first night as I don’t charge new remotes. but they usually have 30% juice in them. Congrats, if you got CC#1, move on to CC#2

Confidence Check #2: This is not the day your welding. don’t need no drama. You can plug your receiver in a wall socket and play with it without your welder. If you plug it in, roughly seven seconds after, it will be accepting input from the hand remote. I just turn the dial a bit and whammo you should see a number. go to min maybe you get a “30” go to max, maybe you get a “300” that’s just what I put in there. I don’t know what your welder’s minimum is going to be (I do but not close enough) and on a miller, the max is what you set it. On a Lincoln, the dial is bypassed so its the normal max. We should do a practice calibration. You know, one inside when your relaxed instead of in front of your diesel sending me emails. So, chalk up CC#2 as a win and let’s do a practice, no stress calibration in CC#3

Confidence Check #3: Here we are, the most important confidence check of them all. gotta layman the shit out of this one. 3a) ensure the receiver is on 3b) make sure your hand remote is off, then turn it back on while holding the green button down (keep holding till you see numbers) 3c) done right, the fifth led from left bottom row is lit when displaying numbers 3d) sweep your dial to max, then to min and continue at a natural pace until the screen dims 3e) turn the dial down to enter the number 4 (any other number, go back to 3b) 3f) enter the number 5 (put your dial to min gives you 5 if the previous number was 4) 3g) it shall say calibrate and you will enter the number desired say 50 <- just get close to it as it will say refine and be less touchy once you enter it for a second time. 3h) same as the min but now the max say 200. 3i) now that your done, does your calibration resemble anything near 50 to 200. I mean does your three turn at min show 50ish and the max show 200. 3j) if it does, it seems you performed a successful calibration. You can try one more fake one before trying the real deal. Biggest mistake when attempting a calibration, is 3B. Step 3B is to protect you from a helper accidentally going into the sub menus. its happened. Don’t proceed if you don’t understand CC#3. Sleep on it. think about it. If you don’t get it and move past this point, ill know. see also dkwremotes.com/blog/calibrate

Confidence Check #4: to be written on 06/12

Gamechanger Module

Here is everything you need to know about the gamechanger module. 09/26/18

Ensure your hand remote is on for less than thirty seconds and dial near minimum and it will show you in the second column the gamechanger battery when you turn on your gamechanger module.

(Button Stinger Only)To allow it to communicate with the hand remote, ensure the hand remote has been turned on for less than thirty seconds, give you the module twenty seconds after turning on, then press either the red or green button down. that's it.

(Thumb Dial Only) If it is turned on without a thumb dial stinger attachment threaded on, the buttons on it are active and the red is up and the green is down amps.

(Thumb Dial Only) THUMB REMOTE: If your thumb dial attachment is attached upon start up, the module will revert to the rotary thumb dial. then, to authorize it through the hand remote the thumb dial needs to put to minimum. Once authorized through the hand remote, it will stay active provided you leave your hand remote on.

(Thumb Dial Only) THUMB REMOTE AND HOLDING THE TWO BUTTONS DOWN AT STARTUP: reverses the thumb dial to switch hands

REPEATER MODULE If your dial attachment is not attached upon startup, and both buttons are held down at startup for at least ten seconds, the module will act as a repeater until it is shut down. (Do not perform this act until well versed)

(Thumb Dial Only) LOW AMP CONSTRAIN: If your thumb dial attachment is attached upon startup, you may set low amp constrain by holding the green button down. hold the green button down for eight seconds until your hand remote flashes amp change. Continue to hold the green button until your done dialing the thumb remote to a desired amp then let go. It resets on startup.

(Thumb Dial Only) HIGH AMP CONSTRAIN: If your dial attachment is attached upon startup, you may set high amp constrain by holding the red button down. hold the red button down for eight seconds until your hand remote flashes amp change. Continue to hold the red button until your done dialing the thumb remote to a desired amp then let go. It resets on startup.

L5-20R Receptacle

As indicated below:

• G: Earth Ground

• W: negative bridge rectifier

• U: Blue main shunt wire

The L21-20R The receptacle we have installed for rheo control and power

To Map out and Diagnose your existing 5 prong setup, do the following with a voltmeter/multimeter. Set your remote switch to the middle spot, and with engine running in high idle, find the two prongs that measure approximately 120 VAC. Now that you know which two those are, write them down and exclude them for the following test. Now, with the remaining two outer prongs, we will first confirm that they are volts DC, and then polarity. With the remote switch set to remote, probe the two outer remaining prongs for volts DC usually greater than ninety volts. Once your meter displays volts DC, confirm they go away once you set the remote switch to the middle position. If so, bring back the readings by setting your remote switch back to remote. Now that we have identified both prongs, using the diagram below, write down their letter. final and most important test is to determine their polarity. With the remote switch set to remote, and multimeter set to volts DC, position your multimeter leads so the multimeter shows positive DC. Once you have that, write down which prong is positive and which is negative. and email your results to info@dkwremotes.ca

Because we chose to have the five prong installed, we now have various wiring scenarios due to weld repair shops not conforming to each other. For these Rheostat receivers, I adopted the standard that meets electrical codes. The following is the receptacle pinout:

• X: 110 hot

• W: 110 com

• G: ground

• Z: shunt

• Y: DC- rectifier bridge

Ok what does this mean for us in the picture.

• X : (circled in blue) (110 hot)

• W (circled in yellow) (110 common)

• G: (circled in light yellow) (ground)

• Z: (circled in black) (blue wire shunt)

• Y: (circled in red ) (DC- Neg rectifier)

We performed this install correctly on a DK300 3+3 with the following steps. Measuring from inside the machine to the receptacle with a voltmeter in ohms, we identified the 120 Hot Wire to X and then we identified the 120 Common wire to be W We also confirmed the middle ground pin to be connected to the body of the welder. Now we only had to confirm Z and Y. Y in its correct orientation should have continuity to the pin of the negative bridge rectifier . Typically the DC negative of the bridge rectifier will have the red 600A wire. The remaining one, Z, should have continuity to the first spade connector connected to the blue main wire shunt coming out the generator to the Z prong

diagnostic flowchart

Rheostat Calibration (Advance User)

When you receive your rheostat receiver, it may or may not have the same feel of your corded remote. This is because every oem rheostat has a different ohmic meseaurement. As well, your total gauge and cordage affect this. Fortunately, I have pre calibrated the unit for you.

The first menu is lower rheostat calibrate. It will lower the bottom end of heat by a five percent increment. To do just this you must do the following:

1. Hold the green button down at hand remote startup

2. Re enter the amperage adjustment menu

3. Enter 122 & 352 to decrease the receiver lower value by approximately 5%

4. done right, it will say "decrease rheo:"

The second menu is raise rheostat calibrate. It will raise the lower threshold of heat by a five percent increment. To do just this you must do the following:

1. Enter the amperage adjustment menu

2. Enter 100 & 400 to authorize the change. It will say "Authorize:"

3. Do not turn off your hand remote

4. Re enter the amperage adjustment menu

5. Enter 122 & 372 to increase the receiver lower value by 5%

6. done right, it will say "increase rheo:"

Should you get hung up and lost reference, to return the rheostat back to original settings, do the following:

1. Hold the green button down at hand remote startup

2. Re enter the amperage adjustment menu

3. Enter 122 & 362 to return the rheo to original setting

4. done right, it will say "original rheo:"

EVOX WIRELESS WELDING REMOTE

A Smaller, Smarter, and Stronger Wireless Welding Remote is here with the new EVOX. This cutting edge set, developed for ten months, from the ground up, was designed around a new radio chipset and leads the way in every metric for job performance. Designed for the professional in mind, this rugged next generation model has LED matrix display, lithium ion polymer rechargeable battery, three turn dial and two buttons capable of up and down incremental operation as well as hotstart. And that just scratches the surface.

SMALLEST dial and button remote set on the market reducing its own footprint by fourty percent.

SMARTEST utilizing spread spectrum and frequency hopping to ensure a clean, far reaching signal. twice the distance of any competitor.

DURABILITY has been increased. it has been designed from the ground up to take abusive.

BATTERY size is increased by 83% from 1200mA to 2200mA. With refined code, it increases the overall duration of the remote set to twice its previous metrics between charges

CHARGING RATE 3x of the previous model from 100mA/hr to 330mA/hr.

SPECIFICATIONS:

• Weight: 11 ounces (315 grams)

• Dimensions: 4 3/4"x3”x2 1/8" (121mmx75mmx54mm)

• Battery: 3.7V 2200mAh Lithium Ion Polymer

• Battery Charge Rate: ~330mA/hr (8 hr recharge)

• Body Composition: ABS -50 to +105 Celsius

• 1” (25.4mm) Executive Woven Lanyard

• Plug and Play 14 pin or 6 pin Receiver

• Legacy Digital User Interface

• Up to 1200 Feet Clear Line of Sight

• Signal Repeating W/ 2nd Hand Remote

• Battery Meter,  Digital Amp Display

• Rx Signal Meter, Tx Strength Meter,

• Three Programmable Calibrations

• Three Turn Dial and Two Buttons Capability

• One Inch Wide Deluxe Woven Lanyard

• One Inch Rare-Earth Magnet.

• Optional Command Start Module available

• Cross Platform Compatible w/ opt. adapter

• Industry Leading Warranty

Customer Conduct Policy

Policy for Dealing With Unacceptable Customer Behavior

At DKWRemotes, we believe that our customers have the right to be heard, understood and respected. We also believe that our staff have the right to work in an environment free from any abuse. We expect our customers to treat our staff with courtesy and respect at all times. 

There are a range of actions we consider to be unacceptable, which can be grouped as follows:

• Aggressive or abusive behavior; and

• Unreasonable demands and/or unreasonable levels of contact

We understand that people can become angry when they feel that matters about which they feel strongly are not dealt with as they wish. Should that anger escalate into aggression or abuse towards anyone within our organization, we consider that unacceptable, and have the right to refuse any communication and service. 

Where a customer is unreasonably demanding, repeatedly contacting us via phone, online messaging (of any kind), email, etc., raising the same issue repeatedly, or continually sends us screenshots of issues that are not clear, or refuse to answer our direct questions for troubleshooting and/or servicing purposes, we may decide to:

• Limit or restrict contact

• Contact the customer back by appointment only

• Discontinue service at our discretion

We are reasonable, but we are also a small, busy team. All that we ask of you is to be reasonable as well, in order to help us maintain the best customer service we can to you, our valued customer!

Sincerely,

DKWRemotes

Fine Tuning a Miller Calibration

If you have performed a calibration on a miller machine, and the amps are still off between the machine and hand remote, this is the tutorial for you.

STEP#1 First, with your remote unplugged from the machine, go into each mode ie, 7018, 6010, tig and set the max to the same number (ie, 272).  once done and confirmed, proceed to step#2

STEP#2 We are going to do a calibration <- don't worry if its off. the next step will handle that.

STEP#3 If the calibration is still slightly off, we are going to figure out how off the calibration is and on which end. What I mean is its off because the remote and machine don't share either the same bottom reference, top reference, or both. 

Use the following real world examples as your guide:

EXAMPLE#1

At minimum your machine shows 20 and your hand remote shows 20. But, if you increase your hand remote, and the amps on the machine only move off 20 until you see 25 on the hand remote. This classic scenario shows us the bottom end is off by 5 (25-20). what that means is whatever number you got for minimum from your calibration ie, 20, you must substract 5. so redo calibration with "15" this time.

EXAMPLE#2

At maximum your machine shows 300 and your hand remote shows 300. But, you notice the machine arrives at the max number before the hand remote does. Closer inspection, shows you when the machine initially gets to max, the hand remote shows 288. This scenario found on trailblazers shows us the top end is off by 12 (300-288). What that means is if the max is 300 for example on your machine, you must add 12 to the max calibration. in this case, 312 would be your new number. but leave your machine at 300.

Example#3

Having performed either EXAMPLE#1 or EXAMPLE#2, your calibration is still slightly off. Revisiting example #1 our machine moves off 20 not now when the hand remote is at 25 but 22 which is closer but they are still out. In this case, instead of using the number 15 for minimum calibration from example #1, we go a bit further, and use 14 or 13. 

Example#4

Having performed either EXAMPLE#1 or EXAMPLE#2, your calibration is still slightly off. Revisiting example #2 our machine arrives at max  not now when the hand remote is at 288 but at 297 which is closer but they are still out. In this case, instead of using the number 312 for maximum calibration from example #2, we go a bit further, and use 315 --> (300-297 = 3 + 312 = 315)

These four examples should allow you to achieve an accurate calibration without accessing an advance calibration which currently is only accessible to myself.

Rheostat Wiring Run Through - Detailed

This page is intended to have you run through and confirm your remote wiring as detailed as if I were there. It will pertain to the L4-20R receptacle (but if different, we’ll get to it) the typical oem four prong receptacle. Just to be clear, the picture next to this text is the L4-20R. Tools needed are a voltmeter for measuring resistance and perhaps some wire for probing in the receptacle as your voltmeter probe may not reach all the way in. Fret not, your machine won’t be on.

Pretext: Although your oem receptacle may have 3-4 wires to the four prong, I am only interested in two. I call them the main shunt wire and the dc neg rectifier wire

SHUNT WIRE IDENTIFICATION

Opening the side door on the remote receptacle side, coming out of the generator, mid way, is two wires that connect to the J5 connector, <- (a 4 wide by 3 high molex connector) In the picture nearby, I happen to be holding the wire that connects to one of those wires. The wire I am holding, i call position number three, is one who connects to the blue shunt wire with wiring designation 602C. in a nutshell, 602C goes into the connector and comes back out 602B, and heads the to the remote circuit. the blue shunt wire identification is important for the installation of the flyback diode which is paramount and the first thing we do

That leaves us the other wire. however, to educate ourselves, confirm the other wire named brown shunt wire with wiring designation 612 enters the molex in position number 5

TIP: notice you can flip the molex as its a rectangle. however, the blue shunt wire will never be in the middle row.

That concludes shunt wire identification and pertains to installing the flyback diode

REMOTE RECEPTACLE PRONG VERIFICATION

Lets just make sure your receptacle is how its supposed to be. Perform the next readings with the machine off and the remote switch in the remote setting. We will identify the bridge rectifier location next.,the component responsible for turning AC into DC for our shunt remote circuit. Remember Molex position number 5? Well, position number 6 has wire 610. Follow that wire to the bridge rectifier. Now that you have found the bridge rectifier corner with 610, identify wire 600 in the opposite corner of the square bridge. Wire 600 is DC negative and it should be directly connected to prong Y of the oem four prong circled in red in the first picture of this tutorial.

If that is correct, we will confirm that the blue shunt wire that comes out of the molex winds it way to the W prong circled in black in the pic above. simply, on the outside, its the prong opposite of the L shaped prong. I theorize that you can measure, on the inside, .position number three spade and on the outside the again the prong circled in black in the pic above.

If all checks out, we can proceed.

FUNCTION TEST

We will confirm that the equipment has survived shipping safely. At home, or inside anywhere, plug the receiver in a wall outlet, not a machine. Turn on your hand remote and after nine seconds of the receiver being plugged in, the hand remote dial should function in the form of 1 to 100.

MACHINE FUNCTION TEST

Now that we are picking away at vetting components, perform the previous function test on your machine while leaving the four prong unplugged. Ensure the hand remote shows 1 to 100 by sweeping the dial

ARC EMF Test

Maybe not a thing, but lets rule it out. Confirm that when you strike up, the position of the receiver isn’t in a place that potential welding emfs don’t glitch the receiver and prohibit hand remote interaction until the receiver is reset. This test has the 120 plugged into the machine and the four plug still unplugged.

Welding Current Adjustment Test

Turn machine off. plug in the 120 and four prong, put the remote switch to remote and leave it in that position not touching it while the machine is running. We will check welding current sweep. We will see if it sweeps from 1 to 100 similar to your corded rheostat. put the remote at 50 and run a bead and attempt to increase and decrease the heat via the hand remote.

Adjusting the receiver min and max values

If the default settings are not right, programming must be performed. I do it with an ampmeter on the shunt wire. however, you will weld a bead to get the low and high settings. This will be accomplished with the following sub menu. the submenu called HEAT SET will actively allow you to set the low and high remapping the receiver to your machine specs.

EVOX GAMECHANGER CHANNEL ADJUST TIPS

This short write up is to introduce you to channel hop and how it relates to the evox gamechanger. The gist is your hand remote and receiver are on a frequency channel. There are 26 channels corresponding to a letter. To find out which channel your hand remote and receiver are on, rotate your hand remote dial to max and hold both buttons. It will display a letter.

That letter must match the letter displayed on the screen of the evoxgamechanger

The gist is your hand remote set and receiver will change frequencies automatically if it detects another evox in the vicinity operating on the same channel. This is not a concern for a user with only hand remote and receiver. However, if you are reading this, you have a third component.

Should your hand remote and receiver change channels on you while your not using your evoxgamechanger, it will not communicate and be on the wrong channel.

The next step for you is channel search. channel search is a built in function that will sweep the airwaves and recapture the proper channel. To access it on a evoxgamechanger, the following steps must be performed

1. on a thumb evoxgamechanger, sweep the thumbwheel from min to max repeating until the dial reverses. now, perform it again. Done right, it will say channel search and sweep the airwaves searching for you receiver until it talks to it. once it does, that’s it

2. on a button evoxgamechanger, press up and down alternating approximately fifty times. over ten, it will show you a counter on the screen so you don’t second guess yourself. once achieved the required up and downs, it will go straight into channel search and sweep the airwaves looking for your receiver. once they talk, the function is complete

Up5 Down5 Increment Changer Menu

the steps to change your up and down to 5 or 10 are:

1. turn on hand remote while holding green button down

2. ensure you see numbers, then sweep from max to min and reverse until screen dims

3. enter 122 for min

4. enter 482 for max

5. it will say “Up5Down5 increment

6. rotate the dial to the right for 10, rotate the dial to the left for 5

Tests your result by entering the up5down5 mode by holding red and green while the dial is not maxed.

Hospital Grade SA200 three prong receptacle

this tutorial will explain the proper pinout of a three prong remote receptacle often found on a dc generator

Circled in yellow is (main shunt coil wire blue in color)

• Circled in blue is (DC negative Red Wire from Exciter)

• Circled in black is (DC positive Black Wire from Excited)

This is what I consider Orientation Style "A". It is very important that your remote receptacle is wired in the following manner or receiver damage will occur.

Rheo Calibrate (DO NOT USE THIS TUTORIAL UNDER REVIEW)

The Rheostat Receiver is sent to you with preprogrammed settings chosen from a classic iiid to predict the bottom end. If they are too hot or too cold for your liking, read and perform the following.

In order to program your receiver to act like your normal rheostat, a sub menu is used.

To access this menu called heat set, perform the following steps:

1. receiver plugged in and on

2. hold the green button down on hand remote startup. You know you did this step correctly when the bottom row, fifth led from the left is lit from this action.

3. with the hand remote displaying numbers, sweep naturally from min to max and reverse repeating until the screen dims down and says “set min amps”

4. enter exactly 460

5. after displaying set max amps, enter 480

6. done right, it will say “heat set” then “low begin”

7. now the dial will adjust the rheostat minimum, 0 to 100% (sent to you at 62) Suggested method is to set the hand remote 0 (do not press green) and strike an arc or attempt. gradually rise the number from 0 to 100 until the arc behaves like minimum in the gear you are in. Once it looks like a natural remote rheostat minimum, press the green button and you are done.

TIP: Remember the number you selected, most likely between 45 and 65. If you still want to adjust it again and say your number was 60, adjust in increments of two, “2”, and try again.

If the above process does not work. if the above process produces no change in arc, please email info@dkwremotes.ca and I will address the issue and respond to your concerns immediately.

XMT Blog for no pre-weld amp display calibration

This page is designed for the new user jumping on an xmt. While a calibration can normally be done without much knowledge on the subject., xmt’s require a little thinking. the main two reasons for this is half the xmt provide no pre weld display. and, some xmts disregard what you set the main dial at and use the full amps.on remote mode

So what does this mean for you the user and calibrating. well, it means you will need to follow my steps on this page. So let’s begin. For this example, we will assume the max amps on your XMT are 450.

1. From experience, you will only be able to weld on the stick setting in electrode hot. There is a small chance that your wireless remote will work and show pre weld display in the white portion where it says CC and has a foot pedal. If so, great go to normal calibrate. If not, well hunker down, here we go.

2. To keep it simple, put your machine in the white portion stick setting, set your main dial to max.

3. Then, thread on your receiver, magnet the receiver somewhere nearby. If your new to it, hopefully you charged it the night before.

4. Turn on your hand remote, then shortly after (less than ten seconds) turn on your receiver. done right, when your receiver turns on, your hand remote will tell you the battery percentage of the receiver.

5. At this point, just move your hand remote dial to confirm the numbers on the hand remote change to confirm proper wireless remote operation.

6. Now is the moment you realize the numbers on the miller aren’t changing. You can thank Miller for that. They still do it to this day on new pipeworx units.

7. What i would suggest is burning a practice rod on plate and adjust the hand remote while doing it to confirm hand remote operation. Once your eyes see the amps adjust, you will get past the shitty deal that the machine doesn’t show pre weld amps.

8. At this point, go to your main dial and see what the minimum is and what the maximum is. say 10 and 450. don’t worry too much about the bottom number as i pre crank my receivers for milller so the number for calibration will likely be around 30-43 <- trust me. however the top number is a good one to find out.

9. now you will perform an initial calibration, can be seen here -> calibrate <-

10. Now back to the machine and see how accurate it is. strike up a known value and rod and find out if its too hot or too cold. Now your diving into xmt calibration.

11. read the stories below

12. If you message me, i will ask you a) the machine max b) your min and max calibration c) what you set your hand remote at d) how many amps did it feel hotter or colder than the set number. <— then with my knowledge on the matter, i can tell you a new calibration to enter from my experience.

XMT STORY #1

All xmts are different. this is an account of one accurate calibration on a xmt with a max output of 600 amps.

Our first step, step #1, was to put it in stick on the electrode hot side as displayed in the pic. Next step, step #2, was to select remote toggle on the machine as displayed in the pic

step #3, we needed to figure out whether the main machine dial determines max amps or if its bypassed. To do this, we calibrated to 425 max on the hand remote. then we set the machine dial to 425 out of a possible 600. We struck a 1/8 7018 rod at 130 on the hand remote. It displayed 190 amps on the machine while welding. What this told us is the machine ignored the 425 and selected the machine max. The answer to step #3 is the max calibrate is the machine max in that mode.

Step #4 is to calibrate the hand remote to the machine max. we also calibrated the hand remote to the machine min which happened to be zero. Set to 130, struck a rod and the machine display 160 amps. When the machine amps are more than the hand remote amps, the bottom calibration is off. In this case, the true bottom was 43 amps, which is a popular number for my remotes on millers. he calibrated 43 for minimum and the machine max for calibrate max. Struck yet another rod and was within five amps

From that point on, minor adjustments on the calibration numbers can dial it in within a couple amps considering the machine has dig and fluctuates.

XMT STORY #3

This xmt (425) has no switch saying panel and remote. no worries, it autodetect based on the receiver grounding pin C to D. He used the tig lift arc mode. He set his xmt to 250 amps max the machine. Calibrated his hand remote to 20 and 250. And, it was 100 amps hot. So, thinking outside the box was necessary. He calibrated the remote 20 and 425 amps. Maxed out the machine. Did a test run at 80 and 79 amps came up. next, turned his remote all the way down to 20 amps, struck on scrap iron and 29 amps on the machine showed. So, he recalibrated 29 and 425 on the hand remote